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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the family completely surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” states the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small shop earning such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.