Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always defined its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these narratives and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
